Happy Birthday Matsu, and Stalking the Wasabi King

Last weekend, we made a trip up to Chia Yi and Alishan.  F. and I took the train up on Saturday morning and met up with the rest of her family, who drove up that morning. The first thing we did was head out through the rain to the big Matsu temple (built in 1694) in Yun Lin. 

Since there were so many people, we parked about 1/2 mile away, and walked across a bridge to get to the road that brings you to the temple Being Matsu’s birthday (29 again?), there were many groups of celebrants on that road, too.  We had a conversation about whether these groups were essentially religious or cultural.  Our end decision, like often happens in Taiwan, is that it is a bit of both.  Basically, your township may have a Matsu temple. If so, you should go to the nearest really BIG Matsu temple (where all the gods gather on that day) and gather some good luck for your village by marching in a procession or parade (there were even a few marching bands) to the temple, where you perform outside, blow off a enormous string of fireworks, and then go in to join the THRONG of people inside.  Literally, pushing room only. It was amazing. Gongs, bells, cymbals, chants, suonas (that shrill trumpet thing)—it really is 好熱鬧 (re4 nao4)!  If you have a chance, do it. One of the most interesting things I have seen inTaiwan in 3+ years.

After that wonderful and exhausting ordeal, we went to a friend’s restaurant for smoked chicken and various other dishes. It was in a way a test weekend for F.’s sister’s boyfriend A-Shang, who wants to build some trust with the parents. Basically, he wants earn some points, if you know what I mean. He was very nervous about the timing, so we tried to help him out the best we could.   This was his friend’s restaurant, so he wanted to treat us. 

Next, we went into Chia Yi and checked out a new building, the Ri __ Tower (called the Chiayi Tower in English).  It is about 12 stories high, and the artwork is dedicated to the old Taiwanese (I think it is aboriginal, but everyone seems to know it here…) story about when there used to be 9 suns in the sky and all the crops were burning and people dying, so some guy went to shoot a few of the suns from the sky. The tower is relatively uninteresting, but offers a nice view of Chia Yi, as well as one of the more frightening views in Taiwan. The center of the tower is open, so when you go to the 11^th floor, you can stand on the glass panels in the floor and stare straight down some 11 floors. It’s unnerving to say the least. I took a picture, but it really isn’t worth putting up here, as it isn’t all that clear.

 We spent the night in a SPA motel (in Taiwanese, “mo-tay-oh”), and I soaked in their full-size hot spring-fed tub.  Aaaah.

On Sunday, we went in search of King Wasabi in the forests of Alishan.

Alishan can be a fun place, but I certainly recommend going on the weekdays.  The weekends, especially in nice summer weather, finds many tour buses climbing the mountain road up to Alishan.  Once you are there, the beautiful tall cedar forests are filled with the sounds of Taiwanese and Mainland Chinese tourists yelling to each other to the forest, oblivious to the other walkers who may prefer a quieter experience.  I don’t know why—education that didn’t emphasize the joyful experience of solitude, or maybe most have just never been in the forest before. At any rate, winter is usually not too busy even on the weekends, but weekdays are a must other times of the year.

We walked through lots of beautiful scenery and tall trees and had a grand old time. I bought some山粉圓  to put in drinks, and ate some wasabi.  But the elusive King Wasabi was not to be found. We found some of his little minions lying about.  Sometimes I thought I saw shadows lurking in the woods, and smelled a pungent odor, but it wasn’t until we exited the woods near a temple that I found the great King Wasabi. Majestic, standing a full 8 feet tall, radiating his tongue-tickling glow.  Made entirely of plastic.  Ok, so it is just a big touristy thing like all the giant Mister Chef restaurants and like in Pocahontas, Iowa. 

After exchanging ceremonial gifts, we headed back down to Fen Chi Hu for dinner, then back down to Chia Yi to catch the train back to Kaohsiung. .

I've added a photo album of the whole experience!

Comments

[Jason]

The myth you're referring to is actually the Chinese legend of Hou Yi (后羿 ), who shoots down 9 of 10 suns (giant flaming birds, actually) to save mankind from a form of prehistoric global warming. I seem to remember a Taiwanese soft drink commercial a few years back with a riff on the legend featuring an archer who extinguishes the suns with his beverage...

[taiwantiger]

Thanks for the clarification. The story was in one of my textbooks as a Chinese fable, but I have had students turn it in as both a Taiwanese tale and an aboriginal story, too, so I wasn't really clear on its origins.

[Connie]

These pix are beautiful! I don't know if this is appropriate but I'm going to ask anyway... I love the Rice Field & Temple pix and wondered if I could get the jpg from you to print and frame.

[Francesca]

Hi! Thanks for your wonderful blog and fantastic photos. I was actually trying to remember the correct names for some foods I have eaten while in Taiwan and ran across your page! How lucky! I am here for another week. It's been good so far, lots of food and lots of shopping. I also went to Jiu Fen on my first day here! Do you have any suggestions on things I should see or do in like a list or something? My friend who I am staying with hasn't been back home for a few years and feels unsure on a lot of things. Anyway, any tips are appreciated!

[taiwantiger]

Francesca-
Since it sounds like you are probably in Taipei, I'm not too much help. Around Taipei there is a cool sculpture museum, and you could go to the Bei Tou hot springs for a day, but I really know the South and East Coast better.

[TwnFlyBoy_747]

hey if u haven't visited Juming sculpture park in Chin-Shan, please do so..... it is very very good my dear friend

they even have a tour bus which will take u from TPE to there

bit pricy but definitely worth it

http://www.juming.org.tw/
skip the intro and you'll see Chinese, Engligh and Japanese version of it

[taiwantiger]

TwnFlyBoy-
Yes, I have heard good things about the museum, but since I don't live in Taipei, it is a bit out of the way for me. I've been trying to go for a while, though.